From the August issue of Dirt Rag:
Hard-fought breweries turn out fine craft beers Utah
In Utah, beer makers have a bit of
an uphill climb bringing their product to market. 115 years of conservative
sentiment in the state has resulted in a strict set of laws concerning the sale
of what the rest of us call plain old beer. Here in Utah its “heavy beer” and
it might as well be a bottle of whiskey. New to the state and its sober ways, I
ventured to root out the best of the heretic brewers.
A
solid handful of microbreweries have set out into this hostile policy
environment and are not only making a business out of it, they’re making great
beers too. Two breweries from Salt Lake City rise to the top: Epic, founded in 2008,
and Uinta founded in 1993, are putting great care and style into producing
light, heavy and everything in between.
While
Utah brews have followed the hop-happy trend as well as anybody, I like
something that can refresh me on a hot afternoon without leaving me too
puckered. My two picks are both mild on hops and accompanying bitterness, but
pack flavor and uniqueness nonetheless.
The
Uinta Cockeyed Cooper is a wind powered, certified organic barley wine ale aged
in bourbon casks. This beer explodes sweet and buttery deliciousness. Vanilla
and cheery are in your face before you even take a sip. Uinta recommends having
this big-bottle corked beer with old cheese or fancy desserts. I say skip the nonsense
and enjoy this delicacy on its own. Never has so much alcohol been so well
concealed, and at 11.1% ABV you’d better mind your p’s and q’s when you drink
this one. The Cooper is a beautiful dark brown, really too drinkable, and
complex without sitting too heavy. Keep your eyes out for this because it’s a special
treat.
The
Cross Fever from Epic was, apparently, brewed with cyclists in mind. The makers
are self-proclaimed “beer geeks, foodies and epic adventure junkies,” and with
this beer as testament, I’ll take them at their word. It’s still mild on hops
like the Cooper, but with just enough edge to keep things interesting. I
enjoyed mine right from the bottle, but it pours a deep brown amber with a
smooth, light head. At 4.8% ABV this beer represents Utah’s tendency toward
mild beers, but it manages to stay smooth without tasting wimpy or watered
down. I found the hearty malt base did well in supporting the almost too subtle
hops. This beer would find good company in a burger, but stands alone too. One of Epic’s “Classic” (read: cheapest)
line, the Fever turned out like a good ‘cross bike: versatile and dialed in.